Louise Brooks, or "The Girl with the Black Helmet"
Every month or two, I hand my hairdresser the same crumpled laser print-out of the fashion model, Patricia Schmid, just before her entrance onto the couture runway. This particular catwalk is themed after the screen siren, if you can imagine Hollywood goddesses in a parade, lining past and through the audience as Veronica Lake, Greta Garbo, and Jean Harlow in beaded shifts, fringe, and sexy trench coats covering what body can be glimpsed by the scarcity of fabric and strong silhouette. Occasionally there is a pair of sequined overalls, and the tendency is to go far with drop necklines and reflective metal.
Looks that have not aged, those dresses and jackets return to our store racks at INA every season.
And so the models wear their hair long and swept to the side. The runway is full-tilt curls, lips, and eyebrow. The models routinely wear acrylic red nails, here a decidedly feminine and not tawdry nail.
But Patricia Schmid is donning the masculine bob, known for its bangs cut barely above the eyebrow, hair trimmed closely to the nape of the neck, and single-length layer cut across the cheekbone. Her only adornment is a mirroring patent-leather collar, tilted up from her blazer. She is a reincarnation of the silent film actress Louise Brooks.
Get Patricia's Look: Patricia pairs black pants and heels with the blazer, and a more burgundy nail and lip than the other girls.
Louise Brooks was informally blacklisted in Hollywood after refusing to act in sound films. For all of her lack of talking, we know her as a style icon, “The Girl with the Black Helmet”. Her feminine 1930s frocks were an accessory to her stark hairstyle, as opposed to her hairstyle an accessory to her dresses. She popularized those bangs previously worn by schoolboys.
In real life, Louise could be seen wearing this and little else, except a heel fastened at the ankle.
I have never printed out a photograph of the silent actress Louise, herself, but only of the model Patricia, instead. Patricia bucks the trend, and finds it easy to do so with fast access to a sharp lapel, a close fit, or a tailored woman’s suit. As it goes, to be the silent actress you pick the most luxuriously masculine detail.
Fur Toppers to Get Your Paws On
The only proper way to beat the cold is to pack in the heat wrapped up in fur. With so many options and gorgeous faux being produced (if you don't feel like dodging PETA paint splatter) you can add the layers and look good doing so. When shopping for the real thing just be aware of the content on the tag, you want to make sure you're getting exactly what the tag says. For example, 100% Lippi Cat is not cut little feline we've never heard of frolicking in the woods, it's actually a made up name for illegally imported domestic house cat from China (shame on you, large successful design house whom I won't name any names). Rabbit is the cheapest, while Sable is enough to break the bank, so weigh your options especially shopping consignment whether the value is appropriate. And lastly, care for your fur! Always unbutton any buttons near the waist when you sit down, the lapels can easily stretch and damage the seams. Avoid chain strap bags--they will break the fur at the shoulders. Storing your fur is just as important, excessive heat will singe the hairs, dull it's luster, and dehydrate the lapels so keep in a dark temperature controlled closet or room.
From left to right: Fendi, Tuleh, Valentino, Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci, Marni.
Available at select locations.
STAFF PICKS | Meet Squirrelly
Name: Squirrelly Milhorn
Hometown: Oak Ridge, TN
Sign: Capricorn (not typical) w/Libra rising
Best part about NYC in the Fall: cozy sweaters, cooler temp, sitting by the fire w/T Man, holidays in nyc, the bestest!
Favorite spot to beat the cold with a cozy drink? Under the duvet, or the mercer ie, HQ - corner table
Reading now: Keith Richards Bio
Last film you saw: Serge Gainsburg
What you were wearing when you were 16: I can’t remember that far back…………..something god awful and if I told you then you would know my age.
Dream date? MICK JAGGER!! (1960’s or 1972 south of France making Exile on Main St)
Do you watch Toddlers and Tiaras? I lived it, darling! I’m from the South! Kidding, 2 close to home can’t bare to watch.
You are stuck on an island with no clothes. But it's magical island and a designer appears to provide you a wardrobe. Who is it? I’m not a one woman designer, but it would have to be Azzedine Alaia!
Who is going to be the next president? Scary thought, if only a strong woman such as Hilary would take on the challenge once again. However, Obama is a probably going to win and I’m happy with that choice! Must be a democrate and our selection of canidates is limited.
Style icon? Marianne Faithful, Anita Pallenburg, Romey Schneider, Kate Moss, Marisa Berenson and the ultimate icon: MICK JAGGER!
Have you ever won a trophy? Yes, IDEAL MISS Pageant, Ms. Congeniality! :)
It's 2am and you just bumped into Ted Danson. What are you wearing? Woolford leopard thigh highs w/black Alaia A line skirt, white button down w/blk studded Alaia booties.
If Ina Nolita held you hostage what would you choose to wear/surround yourself with?
From left to right: Balenciaga Leather Jacket, Alaia Boots, Celine Leather Dress + Marni Necklace.
All available at Ina Nolita.
Blushing Pink
There's nothing more sweet than shades of romantic blush in your fall wardrobe. Instead of quintessentially 70's inspired bohemian duds of rich browns and chocolates going hand in hand, why not take a more modern approach sticking to ballerina pinks cleaned up with tuxedo black. A chiffon skirt under a sleek blazer over suede booties is a lovely way to look dressy without going over the top. Get tonal by wearing your pink with a vibrant red blazer or mini skirt, keep the accessories to a minimal, tan leather accents for day or black going in the the wee hours.
5 Minis That Still Keep You Cozy for Fall
For those of us who like to show off more leg long after beach appropriate weather, consider warming up the main part of your ensemble. Knits and more structured wools are fun to play with when you don't feel like piling on the layers. Keep things simple with a classic silhouette that flatters the body, a sheath or a-line. If you feeling ambitious you can experiment with textures and colors on the gams with endless array of tights. Top with a structured blazer to keep the look polished, rather than coming off as a pre-teen.
Clockwise from left: Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Vintage Alaia
Available at select locations.
Get Your Leather On
No longer just a Hells Angel signature standby, a good leather jacket
is at the top of everyone's lust list for fall. While the standard
motorcycle jacket or model-off-duty look is timeless, this season we get
to play more with silhouettes and color. While you can wear your
motorcycle jacket with pretty much anything, sometimes it's necessary to
dress up the part with minimal cleaner silhouettes. Opt for double
breasted for a more structured look, or open front over a cocktail
dress. A cropped leather in a bold pop of color layered over separates
will update any look. But alas, your everyday jacket will be best as a
biker jacket. Find one light enough to roll up and layer over denim or
layered button downs. A sturdier structured jacket should be one to last
you for years.
Clockwise from left: Celine, Yves Saint Laurent, Kaufman Franco, Marni, Balmain, Balenciaga
